colorado smart owners club was started in July 2008
Latest Activity: Oct 22
Started by Sandy Anderson. Last reply by Russell Glissmann Aug 23.
Started by Luis Contreras Jul 27, 2012.
Started by Jill Hobbs. Last reply by Ed Glassgow Apr 26, 2012.
Steve and Pam. Yes, it's Tobias and yes it's the purge valve, and yes it's disappointing. You can read a whole slew of comments regarding this on the scoa forums. My check engine light has come on twice in the 5 years I've had the car and after a reset it's been fine. No other detectable symptoms in terms of the car running rough or anything, so I am getting to an "ignore it" mode. The first time it freaked me out (it is the "check engine" light after all). Now I am just listening as to whether there are any noticeable strange noises or behaviors of the car. The last time (a few weeks ago I used the ultragauge to delete the code and it seemed to not be working initially, but the next day it was off again and has stayed off - knock on wood). These are the blessings of modern cars with fully sealed gas tank systems. FWIW, I always click the tank lid multiple times to make sure it is completely shut. I had a driver seat belt sensor failure, which required a seatbelt replacement (kind of like the rain sensor replacement when getting a new windshield) - otherwise it's a great little car. Another one of those pet peeve sensors is the tire pressure monitoring system -- what a pain in the ... :) Pushing the reset button a lot when the weather changes --
Wow...thanks toes, or as I recall, it's Tobias? Forgive me if I'm wrong here...
This gauge looks like a better one actually than the Scan Gauge, so thanks for the info and link! We'll probably go with this one for sure...
So, I assume by valve, meaning this "purge valve"? If so, can Ed perhaps give a cost on this please? If it is a valve or part on the car of some kind, still a bit disappointing this would go down on a 3 yr old car with 32,000 miles!
"It's just a bit much to have a dealer or auto parts store, or auto service center charge $50-$100 for the diagnostics just to get the code,..." The auto parts stores will read the codes for free.
Addition: The windshield mount is $9.00 extra, but it is well worth it (suction cup and goose neck). The gauge itself is $70.
Steve and Pam, The gas cap is actually probably not the culprit (and not as Russ stated the most common cause). It appears that the most common cause is the faulty valve. Also: Error codes do not automatically reset once the problem is fixed, it takes a reset through the OBDII port. If you are looking at a more competitive option for a gauge that displays codes and other useful (customizable) info (such as lifetime mpg, etc.), check out this one (I am not affiliated, but I have owned one for a few years now and keep it permanently plugged in and it comes with a nice windshield mount - I put mine in the bottom left corner on the windshield): http://www.ultra-gauge.com/ultragauge/index.htm
Thanks Russ and Ed! Ed, as I recall, I think we've talked to you once out at MB Westminster. I completely understand about not knowing what code and error the scan might show. Tis why we're thinking of the purchase of the Scan Gauge II so again, we can run our own diagnostics to see what error code pops up. It's just a bit much to have a dealer or auto parts store, or auto service center charge $50-$100 for the diagnostics just to get the code, then any repair and labor cost on top of that when one is on a fixed income....:)
Russ, I tried the gas cap last night to see if it might be that, and the light was still on steadily this morning. I'll report if it's on this evening. I know in older cars there was such a thing as "vapor lock". Could this be possible on the car, or a bad batch of gasoline causing this light?
I know what the standard warranties are. We did get the extended warranty...
I did check all the Smart forums, but again, a lot of these posts concerning the check engine light are from way back in 2008, and there were 5 possibilities that I saw. Anyway, thanks for the link to the convention, and the response about the gas cap!
Can you please let me know if there is a meet at the Wildlife place? I assume we're talking about the one on Lincoln between Lone Tree and Parker?
Hi Steve, the most common cause of the check engine light is the gas cap being loose. Make sure it is tight, then just wait for up to 24 hours for the light to clear. This has happened to me a number of times. If not, and you do get the scangauge, post the code here and likely Eddie will be able to tell you what the code means, and how serious the problem is. If you didn't check the SmartCarOfAmerica forums, that would be a good source for information as well.
You can't really expect anyone to give you an estimate solely based on the check engine light being on. If you take the car to an auto parts store they can at least read the code for you, but that is no guarantee it will narrow down the cause enough to let you fix the problem on the first try. Your 2010 had a 2 year/24K mile warranty - which has expired, unless you bought an extended warranty.
So everyone, here we are back again under both our names. We still have the yellow 2010 fourtwo, and still live in Parker. Both work and health issues have kept us from taking part in much of anything the past year or so.
So some observations here. First, our Smart of course I believe is still in warranty, and low and behold, yesterday our check engine light came on. First, I must say, I checked the Smart Madness forums and the other forums (don't recall the url), and found VERY few posts about this issue, and then most dated back to 2008.
The answers varied greatly: low battery causing the light, loose gas cap, loose cap seal, fuel sensor, purge valve bad, bad sensor, dirty sensor, so not much help there.
I neglected after buying the car to purchase a Scan Gauge II, which now we're thinking of purchasing, and the reasons are the following.
One, we called 1-800-SmartUSA, and their reply was: we cannot tell you what we think the cause is, nor give out estimated costs to repair, and the only recourse is if under warranty, it MUST be taken to a dealer. Well, we have called the Westminster dealer, and have been told once before that they cannot give out cost estimates over the phone. Our reply was, and is: why not? If we have a code, or don't have a code, we should be entitled to know going in what an estimated repair would cost. When one of a couple is on a fixed medical disability income, we simply cannot afford a diagnostics check for I believe in the past we were quoted $100, then tear into the car, and be presented with a 500 dollar or more estimate or bill. Just can't happen.
Now, understandably we are to say the least disappointed that a 3 year old car with 32,000 miles on it should have a part go down (if it is indeed a purge valve, or some type of internal sensor or gauge). We have loved the car up until now.
I won't ask what the members think this issue with the light might be, as in the other forums, I might just get five different answers. So, unless it's some bad gas (as we just filled the car up the day before with premium), we're stuck in a quandary without being able to support a 300-400-500 dollar or more repair bill...
Right now we're disappointed enough that we do plan to keep our Smart, but only in a few years as a second car, and probably would not buy another Smart...
Our only option it would seem at the moment would be to buy a Scan Gauge, and run the diagnostic ourselves, instead of when another warning light might come on down the road, run to the dealer, or an auto store, and pay $50-$100 for just a diagnostics test, then more for repair..
Just our experience recently, and our observations. Up until this point we have never had a concern with the car...
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